There are 3 robertson screws holding the blinds in place. Look up to under valance and you will see. Undo them and it will come down. The restringing is actually quite simple to do but make sure you have the right size cord for it.
We have had to restring many of our shades.
Did them all ourselves on our bed.
We remove valance screws, then shade mounting screws.
Use long needle to string down right side from top to middle rail.
Color = Off white (also comes in beige, which we do not use)
$0.15 / yard ($0.05 / foot)
$.25 each plastic end cap
150' cost $7.50 + 5% tax + UPS charges
300' cost $15.00 + 5% tax + UPS charges Spools
(Foretravel $0.21 each)
2 types of rails: "C" rails like most of ours
and "square rail like our driver's shade.
End caps are either C or square and come in alibaster (ours) or taupe, no clear.
All end caps have a string hole, none with metal edge on hole.
Maximum practical length to purchase from 1,000 foot roll is 300'
Bring two strings into bobbin holes from wall side in, with strings straddling screw. String holes down.
Position bobbin so string holes are down and strings straddle screw
Start screw into wall with bobbin loose. Do not snug bobbin against wall.
Pull strings tight through bobbin by pulling down on vertical strings above.
Pulling strings through bobbin without ALSO pulling down on vertical strings will stress holes on bobbin
Pull strings down with fingers way above bobbin to tighten tension.
Check tension adjustment by strumming of strings.
Tighten bobbin screw and wind excess string around bobbin, then knot
Barry Levitt 1997 U270
My experience was similar for a one blind that had only two strings. The original appeared to have 1.2 mm cord. I replaced with 1.4 mm cord. A trick that I used successfully was to weld the new string to the old string by burning one string, blowing out the flame, and quickly fusing the new string to the old, end-to-end. It took a few tries to get a good weld, but worked very well for pulling the new string through the same route as the old string.