Rear View Camera & Monitor Replacement

by Brett Wolfe 1993 U240

Tim at RVCams ( was an invaluable resource--advice as well as camera and monitor.

CAMERA: Remove the rear camera access panel in the bedroom overhead, then the 2 nuts holding the camera along with two quick disconnects. Note: newer designs are secured differently. Then used the outer dimensions of the camera bezel to make two mounting plates for the new camera from .075” aluminum, painted white.  One plate on the outside of the coach, the other on the inside. The fiberglass cap is “squeezed” between the plates.  Took 30 minutes to make the plates with hack saw, hole saw (for camera wiring), and drill press.

I replaced the original Javalina B&W camera with a Voyager VCCS150.  Tim also supplied a camera wiring to RCA adapter.  So, to hook it up to existing coach wiring, cut and attach 12 VDC + and - (red and black). Buy an adapter from RCA (camera end) to BNC (coach wiring) at any electronics store. The VCCS is quite an improvement— much larger viewing area (horizontal and vertical), is color and has infrared so you can see the toad/behind you at night.

The new camera will work with the old monitor, but obviously will not be color.  Note: on our model year, OE was for straight image camera and reverse image monitor.  You HAVE to retain this configuration so the tank gauges display properly. Newer coaches have a reverse image camera and straight image monitor.  Both camera and monitor I used can be set for either.

MONITOR: I wanted an LCD monitor that flush mounted in the dash, NOT an “add on” on top of the old monitor. Said another way, I wanted to retain the “look” of the dash, not have it look like a bubble gum and bailing wire solution.  Totevision ( makes high-end commercial grade monitors for security systems, etc.  Their LCD-560R is a flush mounted LED/LCD color monitor with cut-out dimensions of: 5.5” W X 5.25” H.  Dimension to outside of bezel are 6.7” W X 5.6” H.  The outside dimensions are perfect for replacing the Javalina monitor.

To remove the old monitor, remove the fuse to the monitor system, then the 6 screws holding the monitor in place.  Remove the two screws holding the power supply to the top case of the monitor and then the electric gang plug.  The old monitor then comes right out.

The new monitor dimensions require trimming a little off the sides of the opening in the dash and removing to above and below the silver bezel above/below the old monitor hole. 

IMPORTANT:  I understand there are three different dash panel materials on different models/years Foretravels.  Ours has a rigid plastic dash panel, so easy to cut with razor knife and hack saw (15 minutes).  Others have an aluminum dash panel—a little harder to work with, but no big deal.  And the newer ones have illumination built into the dash panel—DO NOT CUT THIS STYLE. After sizing the opening, I predrilled and used 4 stainless steel screws to secure the new monitor.

Connect the new monitor: use the original 12 VDC + and – (red and black).  The Javalina “brain” has a BNC OUT that originally went to the gang connector on the Javalina monitor.  Replace it with a 2-3’ BNC to BNC cable. Discard the other three wires which went to the dimmer for the old monitor.  I removed the dimmer switch and just put in a small black trim button in the hole.

Turn it on and enjoy!

© Barry Brideau 2003-2018