With our 97 U 320, when turning the ignition key to the
right, nothing would activate. No speedometer or tach needle movements.
No back lighting. Nothing that normally came on would work. All dead.
Turning key further to the right, to start, would do nothing.
This started happening after a hours long runs.
Usually just a few minutes sitting, and it would work
again. Very unsettling the first time. A call to Foretravel, a few
instructions on crossing the solenoid, brought us back to life.
My thinking is the solenoid gets to hot, quits working, then cools, and works again.
Raymond & Babette
There was/is a solenoid problem on the mid nineties Foretravels.
Mine did the same as yours. James Triana let me know there was an
upgrade/remedy for this.
On my 97, just in front of the passenger seat, the dash
panel removes, and there is a solenoid near the bottom. It looks like a Ford
style from the sixties/seventies. When my coach stopped, as yours, I
crossed the solenoid, everything started. Again, Foretravel has upgraded the
system. I do not know how far back the problem went.
Sounds like this may be your problem.
Raymond and Babette Jordan
What was the UPGRADE, did they go to a higher amperage solenoid or just
improve the quality of the solenoid vendor?
My front solenoid died on me in Yuma early this spring and
we had a hard time finding a continuous duty solenoid that handled 100
amps. JON TWORK
The upgrade is two solenoids that replaced the one
solenoid. There is a kit that can be purchased from
Foretravel. It takes about an hour to put on. Hope this
helps. Keith Risch
I took off our dash cover and checked our ignition relays
located on panel bottom center.
I don't know if our coach has been upgraded. It appears to
have been manufactured with these two relays to control ignition
There are two identical relays, each powering different
circuit breaker bars.
One ignition relay powers 14 circuit breakers, the other
powers 11 circuit
||Tyco # V23232D0001X001 12 volt d.c. / 75 amp
Bosch sold their power relay line to Tyco and this
Bosch # 0 332 002 150 relay.
Enclosed single pole single throw relay has one set
that close when power is applied to the coil
It can be used to turn on 12 volt loads of up to 75
The power terminals have #10/32 screws and the coil
1/4" male quick disconnects (spade terminals).
The nominal operating current is 300 ma.
They are rectangular in shape. Two terminals have bolt
terminals and two terminals have push on spade connectors.
Terminals #30 (bolt) are connected to a large start-battery
connection with heavy wires.
Terminals #87 (bolt) are connected to different circuit
Other two push-on spade connector are hard to follow but are
relay's coil connections that are live when ignition key is turned on.
by Barry and Cindy 1997 U270 36'
We had the same problem, and after replacing two of them that went bad
and were working right at their design limit, we switched to the one
below: PN 9012 - Solenoid Switch L-Series 12-24V
||9-36 Volts DC
|Terminal Stud Size
|Power Consumption - inrush max,
||130ms 3.80 Amperes
|Power Consumption - Holding 12 Volts -
||0.13 Amperes / 24 Volts - 0.07 Amperes
| Inrush Rating:
||2.5 sec. 2000 Amperes
|Weight Lb (Kg)
|| 1.00 (0.45)
|Maximum Voltage Rating
||60 Volts DC
Put it in in 2001. No problems since. Brett Wolfe 1993 U240
This is the type of heavy-duty solenoid we should also
use for start-battery boost switch to flow significant house
battery amperage to engine starter. by Barry and Cindy 1997 U270 36'
There are two different solenoids in discussion:
1. Ignition solenoid. Located under the dash (at least on ours).
Because of the high amp draw that can be run with the
ignition on/driving (lights, dash A/C fan, wipers, etc), a solenoid
is used, since running all that current through the ignition switch
would burn it out in short order. That is the one I replaced with the
Blue Sea unit which is more expensive, but rated for SIGNIFICANTLY
higher amp loads than the OE solenoid.
2. Battery "Combine/Boost" solenoid. Located near batteries.
when the dash "Combine/Boost" button is pushed, this solenoid
connects the house and chassis battery banks.
1. It doesn’t matter how many batteries you have in a bank (Lets
call Starting one "bank" and Coach another "bank") if the
batteries in a "bank" are connected plus to plus, negative to
negative then it doubles the available amperage (if they are
both 12 volt batteries then the result is still 12 volts) but
the amperage is the sum of the batteries in the bank added
together, you could have 2 or 200 batteries in parallel, It
doesn’t matter. The voltage stays the same the available
2. On the coach "bank" it's common to have 2 or more batteries
to give you more AMP hours (Amps divided by load equal AMP hours
available) IE: if I have 1000 amp hours capacity and use 10 amps
of current per hour I have 100 hours use. But in reality I can
only use 50% because we only want to discharge our batteries
down to 50% to ensure long life.
3. On the starting "bank" the reason we like more AMPS is that
AMPS crank the motor over quickly. The voltage would drop considerably if we
didn't have lots of amps to drive the starter. Starting
batteries have different discharge rates than "coach "
batteries, IE: a starting battery can dump 600+ cranking amps to
get the starter going but don't have long term reserve capacity.
4. When you see a starting battery it says "reserve minutes"
that’s the time that you supposedly can drive your car with the
alternator failed and still have your headlights on to drive
home at night and still keep the car running.
5. The battery has NO bearing on the Isolator needed.
The Isolator is only there to ensure that if one "bank"
discharges due to use or failure – it doesn't take out the other
bank down also, hence isolates the discharge of the "banks" You
just don't want the isolator smaller than the rated output of
the alternator for obvious reasons.
The isolator can be tested with a multimeter set on continuity;
it should "beep from the inner terminal out to each outer
terminal. Should not beep across the two outer terminals and
should not beep between the outer terminals and the inner
terminals with the leads reversed from step one. The Isolator is
a simple one way "valve" for electricity.
Here's how to check the isolator using a DC voltmeter.
First, measure the voltage at all three terminals of the isolator with the engine completely off. You should be able to read each battery voltage independently on each of the outside terminals. If there is voltage on the center terminal, one of the diodes in the isolator is faulty and the complete isolator must be replaced. (Some VOMs do have a diode test circuit to double check the diodes in the isolator). If voltage is only read on one of the two outside terminals, there is an open in one battery system.
Next, start the engine and check the voltage at the center terminal of the isolator; it should be at least 13.8 volts and there should be an increase in the voltage measured at the two outside terminals, though it will be less than the center terminal. If you have access to a clamp-around DC ammeter, you will be able to measure the charging current on the alternator output wire.
Additionally, be sure to check all the cable connections at each battery & in the circuit very carefully. I just ran across the same symptom as yours and found a corroded ground cable from the engine battery to the frame ground. If you are sure the alternator is functioning as it should and the isolator tests good, you just may have a cable problem."
After checking the Isolator, I recommend getting out the
wiring schematic and following each wire one by one to ensure
that it is where it should go. Also check the continuity of the
alternator Voltage Sense lead and make
sure that it gets from the alternator to the positive terminal
of starting batteries.
Whether directly to the starting battery, the start battery
terminal of the isolator or the start battery side of the
Boost Solenoid, it doesn't matter which. Then check that the
alternator has not lost its ground due to corrosion. Also remove
the nut from the alternator excite terminal on the alternator,
clean the connection thoroughly, tighten the nut that connects
the stud to the alternator case and use an internal star tooth
washer and a NYLOCK stainless steel nut to re-secure the Voltage
Sense wire to
prevent loosening and use Dielectric grease to prevent
corrosion. In fact it's a good idea to clean each alternator
terminal and use a star washer on each.
If you need to replace the Isolator there is no particular order
to removing or replacing the isolator. I would disconnect the
negative on both the starting bank and the coach bank prior to
any work, and make sure you are not on shore power, just to prevent arcs and sparks. The coach batteries are
powerful enough to weld a wrench to the frame if the positive gets shorted to ground, that can be very
After getting the isolator replaced, then reconnect the negative
battery terminals. You only need to disconnect the one negative
terminal at the battery that goes to the frame on each bank. Not
all the wires.
You can use a three post isolator. It doesn't matter how many
batteries you have, Just hook
your alternator to the center post, the starting batteries to an
outer post and the coach batteries to the other outer post.
This is ALL you need. If the alternator needs remote volt sense
then connect to start battery positive terminal . The
boost solenoids "join" the battery banks external to the
isolator. Just trace the wires one a time and you will be fine.
All you need is a three post isolator that exceeds the capacity of your alternator.
IE: 160 amp alternator - 200 amp isolator.
A 200 AMP isolator is fine, if you have a 180 amp
alternator, only alternator
current goes through the isolator, You will NEVER put
180 amps into the
batteries, for one most batteries cannot handle 180
amp charge, and your
alternator really only produces about 1/2 the rated
I have been running for over two years with a 3 post 250 amp
isolator- no problems.
6. The electricity you use to start or light your coach does not
go through the Isolator. Only juice from the Alternator to
battery "bank" goes through the Isolator.
7. When you hit the Boost Solenoid it Parallels up the two bank's
(Starting and Coach) to give you a huge boost in AMPS to get you
started. It does this by when you activate the "boost" the
solenoid (switch) closes and adds in the "coach" batteries to the positive
terminal of the starting batteries before it gets to the starter.
Since everything on the coach is a common ground,
the negative sides of the coach batteries are already
"paralled" up with the starting batteries.
8. The reason your "Starting" bank does not charge from your
inverter charger is that the same wire that connects the coach
positive from the "coach" batteries to the Inverter to turn 12
volt to 110 is the same wire that charges the batteries when the
inverter has shore power. It just reverses direction on the same wire. The inverter / charger does
Take a look at this for some good info.
Probably more than anyone wanted to read.
Greg Jones 2/27/08